This kit like nearly all ARTF models requires cyano and epoxy glues, fine sand-paper (400 & 200 grit) and a sharp model knife to separate and trim parts. Clamps to hold pieces while glue sets are also required. They can be of the spring or plastic/rubber band type. As holes have to be made, 4,3 & 2.5mm drills are needed. With regards to the glues I used medium Cyano and both 5 minute and 30 minute epoxy depending what work was required before the glue set.

The building instruction booklet is straight forward and easy to use with several illustrations to help clarify the text. As this was my first ARTF if followed these instructions to the letter (almost). A list of parts is given at the end of the instructions with part number, description, quantity, material and remarks. Therefore when checking to ensure all the items are present you can identify where they will be going. As with all ARTF bits keep them together until required.

The wing is assembled first and the instructions are very clear on this, advising the use of 30 min epoxy on the center join. Ailerons are pre-fitted. The wings themselves are apparently foam filled plastic.

Near the end - when painting - I found that the trailing edges had started to spring open but a touch of cyano cure this problem.

The body is constructed of what appears to be a robust plastic (ABS?) with an integral cowling and recess for the engine silencer. Again the instructions are clear and simple to follow. I usually did a ‘dry run’ to see where things fitted and that they actually did.

The firewall, pre-drilled for and fitted with the engine mount, is first. Then the center bulkhead again drilled ready and fitted with attachments for the main landing-gear is next then the main under-carriage legs are bolted in place.

The engine is temporally fitted so that the cowling can be shape to allow for the carb and silencer screws.

The elevator then rudder come next and again the instructions are clear. The elevator comes in two parts but are easily joined as per instructions using the epoxy and the spar provided.

Internals: Servo tray supplied and has to be drilled to take servo mounting screws before fitting again instructions straight forward.

Fuel tank next. This has a rubber collar which is pushed firmly through the fire wall and then a plastic support glued in position.The tank is a 225cc one.

Controls. These were the only things that gave me any problem as they have to be bent to fit and move freely. The rudder is a closed loop type so make sure the lengths are correct before cutting. The wires are attached to the rudder using brass stopper crimped on to a loop through each side - I added some cyano before crimping to be on the safe side.

Adjustments have to be made to the throttle control once the engine is fitted to ensure a smooth friction free movement.

Motor: I fitted an OS 40LA which is powerful enough for me - a learner and I can get about 20 minutes or more per tank. I find (as a Learner) that the power output counts more than the capacity of an engine.

Wheels: Despite using the supplied nuts I lost one on the first flight I therefore advise using nyloc types to over come this.

Center of Gravity: Explained in the instructions - with the OS I added 100gms lead to arrive at the optimum. I melted and shaped this to fit in the bottom of the cowling.

Finish: None really needed but I painted mine using car aerosols and then a fuel proofing varnish.

The last paragraph of the instructions mentions that repairs can be made using epoxy and glass fibre but that spare parts are available.

After the obligatary taxying trials the plane was pointed intot he wind and took off within about 20 yards. It felt nice to fly and comes high on the recommended list for bieginners. The glide characteristics for a dead-stick landing give nothing to worry about. This model with the present engine I would say is a very good starting point and is quite forgiving. The steerable nose wheel makes a great deal of difference on a tarmac runway.

A well spent £89 I think.

Tom,

I've started on the change over re-steerable front wheel, for, as you saw, the connection wire supplied was far too flexible - so I now have a far stonger and less 'bendy' connection (Sulivan snake).

With regards to the aileron control horns - which should have not snapped - I got some 4mm Al rod from B&Q - tapped and threaded this into the existing moulded control horn legs so that it is strong enough. I have also used some rubber around the base - where the wing sits (draft excluder strips) to allow a fit that should allow for 'heavier' landings.